What is domoda, the Gambian national dish, doing in a Senegalese restaurant? One glance at a map of West Africa refreshes the memory: Except for its narrow coastline on the Atlantic, Gambia is surrounded by Senegal. Little surprise, then, that a sauce very similar to the larger country's mafe should win admirers on both sides of the border.
Like mafe, which is also served as part of the rotating lunchtime menu at brand-new Pikine (Pee-keen), domoda is thickened with peanut butter. From the recipes I've found, however, its base seems to rely more on tomatoes and not at all on smoked or dried fish. This domoda yap (featuring lamb, $12) sported on-the-bone hunks of tender meat as well as carrot, potato, some sort of pumpkin or squash, and the obligatory hot pepper (in this case, green). Spooned over a big plate of white rice, this could be your new favorite cold-weather stew.
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