Jacob Restaurant, a soul food and salad bar of several years' standing, with two Harlem locations, this year spun off a full-service restaurant featuring the cuisine of the owner's native Senegal. Might newly opened Sweet Mama's follow a similar trajectory? This selection ($4.99 per pound) featured nothing more exotic than oxtail, in the company of collard greens, mac 'n' cheese, black-eyed peas, and candied yams. The owner held out hope, however, that if all goes well he might eventually serve some food like that back home, in Burkina Faso.
689 Lenox Ave. (144th-145th Sts.), Manhattan