Things that say "Portugal": sun-faded stripes, in national green and red, to the left of the entrance. A short stack of Portuguese-language newspapers, on the ledge inside the window, side-by-side with the New York tabloids. Jars of honey and bottle of olive oil imported from the old country, and lupini beans packaged in New Bedford, Massachusetts, a magnet for Portuguese immigrants since the whaling days of the 19th century. And presunto, a dry-cured ham, which like all the sandwich meats can be served on a hero — but why would you pass up a Portuguese roll ($4.50)?
Portuguese American Deli
220-17 Jamaica Ave. (220th-221st Sts.), Queens Village, Queens