From one of many Pakistani storefronts that bills itself "restaurant & sweet," the latter: what the counterman knew only as custard ($3). Though the chunks of fruit were mango, the predominant flavor was orange, evidently from some sort of powdery blend that colored the custard and, more strikingly, the slices of bread. In the display case they were laid across the top of the custard, but as served they were broken and swirled into it; stiff though not crisp, they offered some small contrast of texture. It's a dessert customarily made only in home kitchens, the counterman added. I'd already had my salty for the afternoon; to follow it, this was a wonderful sweet.
964 Coney Island Ave. (Newkirk-Webster Aves.), Kensington, Brooklyn