In a two-scoop cup of jaggery atop durian-banana ($6), you'd expect the latter — which features the infamous "king of fruits" — to have the stronger flavor. Jaggery, you may know, is an unrefined sugar usually made from palm sap. Often it has a golden brown color and molasses-like undertones, both of which were nearly absent in the scoop on top.
The paleness of its company, however, didn't diminish the durian-banana. To my delight that scoop tasted very little of banana, which is employed more to temper the durian pungency and to help smooth the texture. What comes through is the lush and fragrant flavor of the best durian ice cream in the city.
Morgenstern's Finest Ice Cream
2 Rivington St. (Bowery-Chrystie St.), Manhattan