Eating In Translation

Parm

Invariably a basil leaf is slipped between the bread.

Balaboosta

It's the difference-maker that distinguishes a Tunisian sandwich from the pedestrian tuna-and-egg variety.

La Cremeria

"Nerone," in Northern Italy, refers to something darker than dark. As applied to this gelato (a free sample), the name signifies a base of 80 percent cacao, with all the depth of chocolate flavor that implies, and none of the bitterness.

La Cremeria
178 Mulberry St. (Broome-Kenmare Sts.), New York
212-266-6758
www.La-Cremeria.com

Torrisi Italian Specialties

When you're talking sandwiches, how do you say "glass half-full"?

The Original Johnny Fasullo's Sausage & Bracciole

Clear favorite of the guys who shop at Jovino's, and the guys who know the guys.

Green Apple

(This venue is closed.) Red, white, and (hidden below) blue.

Acquedolci

It's a Sicilian message.

La Bella Palermo

Tie me up, wolf me down.

McNally Robinson Teahouse

The coffee in this bookstore café ($1.75; includes one refill) is prepared from an Italian brand called Miscela D'oro; it's medium-bodied and slightly acidic, and I love how the pump pot froths the surface. The café itself has a pleasant atmosphere: not too frenetic, but not overrun with all-day campers, either.

McNally Robinson Teahouse
52 Prince St. (Lafayette-Mulberry Sts.)
212-274-1160

Ciao Bella Gelato

You'll find ample opportunity to experiment with fancy flavors at Ciao Bella, though even a small cup ($4.75) will cost you. I've enjoyed their malted milk ball gelato, especially the little crunchy bits; the cantaloupe tarragon sorbet — sandy orange with flecks of dark green — has a gentle, refreshing melon flavor.

Ceci-Cela Patisserie

Nice, tart currant gelato (one scoop; $3; from the now-closed Chambers St. location).

Ceci-Cela Patisserie
55 Spring St. (near Mulberry St.)
212-274-9179

Di Palo's Fine Foods

"Pecorino" ("little sheep") describes a vast range of Italian sheep's milk cheeses; Di Palo's carries more than a hundred, including this variety ($12.99 per pound) that borrows from the beehive, then wraps itself in paper impressed with hay. The yellowed interior is hard and granular; the aroma, mildly lactic, with hints of honey as well as hay. On the tongue, exceptionally even-tempered lactic flavors step forward, and the other notes recede, provided you peel it.

Di Palo's Fine Foods
206 Grand St. (at Mott St.)
212-226-1033
www.DiPaloSelects.com