Eating In Translation

Word of Mouth: Memories of Laos

(This remembrance was sent to me by a reader, Orestes Gonzalez, following my recent posts on Luang Prabang and Vientiane. In addition to making a few minor typographical edits, I've omitted the name of "the lady," to protect her privacy.)

Thanks for the memories of Laos.

I was there in 2000, coming from Siem Reap. I got there on a Friday night, with $5 in my pocket (couldn't find any money changers in transit). The airport, newly remodeled, had no money changers open, as my flight was the last one (and had been delayed several hours).

The hotel I stayed at wouldn't change traveler's checks (I walked the ten blocks to get to it) or accept credit cards, so I was basically stuck for the weekend, without cash, until the banks opened on Monday. I guess I would eat fried caterpillars for the next two days.

Roadside sandwich table

Even at 7:00 a.m., this stand did a brisk takeaway business, and one hanger-on was already looking for leftovers. (Click on this or any other photo for a better view.) My top-loaded pork sandwich (6,000 kip) featured a very dense, chewy loaf and a notable dose of black pepper.

Roadside sandwich table
Luang Prabang, Laos
(From a November 2006 visit)

Malee Lao Food Restaurant

Your appetite will be fired up, too.

Ice cream vendor

By late morning, I was already alert to signs of ice cream.

Somchan Restaurant

Best larb ever.

Phosy Market

It's just a short tuk-tuk ride south of town.

Night market

More choices than I had time for.

Roadside kebab stand

The setting was romantic, in a roughing-it sort of way, but even basted with a sweet sauce, three-bite beef kebabs (1,000 kip per skewer) were tough.

Roadside kebab stand
Luang Prabang, Laos
(From a November 2006 visit)

BeerLao

Since I was careful to avoid alcohol while the sun was high, this is the only photo I have of the omnipresent national beer (330 ml.; about 6,000 kip). It's deep yellow with a thick creamy head, a full, mildly fruity malt aroma, a slightly sour flavor with a round mouthfeel, and a smooth finish. Even in the absence of food, it's a good session beer, but in the Luang Prabang heat, best keep your session short.

BeerLao
Luang Prabang, Laos
(From a November 2006 visit)

Bao vendor

Like a steamed Lao version of "hot pockets."

Convenience store

I'm fascinated by how familiar brands make their way in less-familiar contexts. The red seal and yellow banner mark this as a Schweppe's (it's much easier to read when you rotate the can to the English side); the flavor of manao, or lime, is pitched toward Lao and Thai tastes (325 ml.; 5,000 kip, or about 50 cents at the time).

Middle Eastern imports, including lemon and tangerine, have found their way to Bay Ridge, but I've never seen the manao flavor in New York. Have you?

Convenience store
Luang Prabang, Laos
(loosely, pronounced Loong prah-Bong by the locals)
(From a November 2006 visit)