Malloreddus are a simple sort of gnocchi, native to Sardinia, made from a plain dough of flour and water. They're "pressed with the thumb against a textured surface, The Oxford Companion to Food observes, "so that when cooked they curl up into the form of giant woodlice." That's a bit unkind toward a humble dish that's not trying to climb above its station. This hearty version, alla Campidanese ($15), named for a province in the south of the island, incorporates sausage in the traditional tomato sauce.
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