Eating In Translation

Kitchen Little

The Portuguese Benedict (special; $11.95) substituted slabs of chouriço for the usual Canadian bacon and added a little spice to the hollandaise (a scramble with similar ingredients is available on the regular menu). Like the view of the Mystic River from the communal tables outside, it's worth lingering over.

Even considering the indoor seating, on weekends Kitchen Little doesn't have nearly enough room for the many hopefuls who sign up for a table; best to arrive very early.

Kitchen Little
135 Greenmanville Ave., Mystic, Connecticut
860-536-2122
Open from 6:30 a.m. until early afternoon

Noah's

The area's don't-miss dinner destination. An appetizer special, a slice of green bean amandine quiche ($4.25), was supremely fluffy; from the regular menu, the mussels with parsley, white wine, garlic, and lemon ($9.95) were notable for their exceptionally light broth (extra bread a must). One misstep: A pair of Korean pancakes ($5.50) were too crumbly.

Though it's hardly a local catch, an entrée of char-grilled mahi mahi with basil mustard butter (special; $20.95) narrowly nosed out the sautéed fresh crab meat with mushrooms and watercress (bottom photo; special; $21.95) and the sesame-broiled sea scallops (special; $21.95).

As for dessert (all prepared on the premises; $4 to $6), the crème brulee was too soft, but the strawberry rhubarb crisp and chocolate kirsch cake were very good, the blueberry cream pie was wonderful, and the baked rice pudding, enlivened with golden raisins, was the best I've tried.

Noah's
113 Water St., Stonington, Connecticut
860-535-3925

Water Street Café

Blueberry buckwheat pancakes (shown; $7) were airy but dry, and I couldn't vouch for the vintage of the berries. Sweet potato pancakes (also three for $7) — not latkes, but a fluffy breakfast version — are almost too sweet to tackle yourself. According to our waitress, many folks order 'em for the table.

Water Street Café
142 Water St., Stonington, Connecticut
860-535-2122

Mary's Portuguese Sweet Bread

Eggy, very soft, and sweet all by its lonesome; even more fetching when married to a jar of preserves. Three of us found a fresh loaf at the Stonington farmer's market (15 oz.; $4), tore away fingerfuls, and finished it on the spot.

Mary's Portuguese Sweet Bread
10 Mark St., Pawcatuck, Connecticut
860-599-0340
At the Stonington Saturday Farmer's Market

Mystic Drawbridge Ice Cream

Toasted almond, black raspberry (two dense, creamy scoops; $4.30). I could just as gladly have enjoyed ginger spice and maple nut, or strawberry and "Oreo cream," or "lemon chocolate kiss" and Kona coffee.

Mystic Drawbridge Ice Cream
2 West Main St., Mystic, Connecticut
860-572-7978

Mystic Pizza

Full pies are available with most of the usual toppings and in all sorts of nontraditional combos; have a seat at Mystic Pizza for a slice, and your choices are cheese (shown; $2.25) and pepperoni. It's thick, with a spongy texture on a lightly browned, crispy bottom; very tasty, and probably even better on a cool evening.

Mystic Pizza
56 West Main St., Mystic, Connecticut
860-536-3700

Costello's Clam Shack

Just down the river from its sibling restaurant, Abbott's, and adjoining a working shipyard, Costello's features a very similar menu and slightly superior waterside views. The clam fritters (eight for $4.95) are better bypassed, however; the dough was rubbery, and the few clam strips I found were unusually chewy.

Costello's Clam Shack
145 Pearl St., Noank, Connecticut
860-572-2779

Abbott's Lobster in the Rough

Quarter-pounder, shoreline style: Abbott's amazing hot lobster sandwich ($12.95) piled a mound of pure meat, laced with melted butter, on a toasted bun. Clam chowder ($3.25) was good; creamy lobster bisque ($3.95) was great.

Abbott's Lobster in the Rough
117 Pearl St., Noank, Connecticut
860-536-7719