Eating In Translation

Central Grocery

They're prepared in advance, pre-wrapped to travel, and much better earlier in the day.

Leah's Pralines

Betcha can't eat just one.

Fishmouth downspouts

Fish are everywhere on New Orleans menus and essential to the seaport's economy, but as a decorative motif, they're surprisingly rare.

Fishmouth downspouts
Next to Leah's Pralines
714 St. Louis St. (Royal-Bourbon Sts.), New Orleans

Bennachin

In a city that owes such a culinary debt to West Africa, it's a wonder there's no other restaurant quite like Bennachin.

Two Sisters Restaurant

This was the only New Orleans meal that awed me with sheer bulk.

Angelo Brocato

In a city with a long-established Italian community, count on finding a good sweet shop.

Parkway Bakery & Tavern

That's one of many.

Dixie Gyro

Purely for the name.

Dixie Gyro
110 Carondelet St. (Canal-Common Sts.), New Orleans
504-523-6614

Musing on Melpomene

Each of the nine Greek goddesses known as the Muses is memorialized by a street in the Lower Garden District. From a literature class long ago, you might recall the name Melpomene, the muse of tragedy, but ask for directions using the Merriam-Webster pronunciation, and you'll earn the smile that locals everywhere bestow on hopeless tourists. You'll be pointed the right way, too, but I'd rather not be made to feel like a rube. (Note to self: Be more gracious the next time I'm asked for directions to Hyoos-ton St.)

In New Orleans, Melpomene is Mel-puh-meen. Her sisters Calliope, Euterpe, and Terpsichore each also shed a syllable, while one variation for Clio is so bizarre I'd have to hear it to believe it. Read much more in this lexicon of New Orleans terminology and speech, from Chuck Taggart's engaging (and literate) Gumbo Pages.

St. Vincent Supermarket

Find a New Orleans deli that serves Chinese food, and likely as not you'll find yat ka mein.

Parasol's Restaurant & Bar

Five-napkin po' boy.

Mahony's Po-Boy Shop

Fresh ingredients, local vendors, a little imagination.

Casamento's Restaurant

Thick toast clamps tight on eight fat fried shellfish in Casamento's trademark oyster loaf (half, $6.45; also whole; $12.90).

La Boulangerie

A fellow stranger in these parts, methinks.

Loquats

At least, they might be loquats. If anyone knows for sure, do tell.

Loquats, perhaps
At the corner of Bordeaux and Constance Sts., New Orleans

Domilise's

It was the high school haunt of the Manning boys.

Arabella Station

Built in 1893, Arabella Station survived more than 100 years as a car barn for streetcars, then trolley coaches, and finally diesel buses. In 2002 it began a second life as a high-ceilinged Whole Foods store; by New York standards, the decibel level is strikingly low.

Arabella Station
Now an outlet of Whole Foods
5600 Magazine St. (Arabella-Joseph Sts.), New Orleans
504-899-9119
www.WholeFoodsMarket.com

Briarhill Farms

The elusive aroma and flavor hints at apple, orange, and peach.

Blue Ribbon Pies

Sole food.

Blue Print Lounge

Apparently not a watering hole for thirsty architects.

Cochon Butcher

It's served with knife and fork, but I preferred to take the matter in hand.

Barbe's mascot

The operations of Barbe's Dairy were consolidated under New Orleans-based Brown's Dairy in 2004, according to the International Dairy Foods Association. Most of the Barbe's employees began working at Brown's, added the IDFA, but the former company's mascot seems to be marking time in a lot across the way.

Barbe's mascot
1800 Thalia St. (at Baronne St.), New Orleans
(opposite Brown's Dairy)

RC Bridge Lounge

This joint serves booze but no food, far as I could tell by light of day; I didn't have occasion to clink glasses with the fellow working the door.

RC Bridge Lounge
1201 Magazine St. (at Erato St.), New Orleans
504-299-1888

Zara's

They're potent lil' fellas.

NOLA Grocery

Boudin in bloom.