Levain Bakery
My cinnamon butter brioche ($3) was all I expected, but still I thought about the chocolate chip brioche that got away.
Anything with chocolate chips hanging out both sides is hard to pass by. Harder still, for some folks, is catching sight of this small, downstairs, side-street bakery before it closes in early evening.
On previous visits: An individual olive and goat cheese sourdough pizza ($6) seemed almost determinedly odd-shaped; the thin, crisp-and-chewy crust had a nice amount of charring; and the kalamatas were suitably meaty. A sugar-dusted raspberry bomboloncino (you can just call it a jelly donut; $2) had a firm, bready casing and plenty of tart filling.
Levain Bakery
167 West 74th St. (near Amsterdam Ave.)
(and a second location in the Hamptons)
212-874-6080
www.levainbakery.com
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