The all-beef Sabrett's dogs are the smallish sort, perhaps 10 or 12 to the pound; they're boiled, but probably not kept on a full simmer; and the cheese echoes the startling yellow of the truck. This so-called belly buster ($2.35) is also dressed with kraut, hot onions, and a particularly hot chili — hot enough that you'll snap to and take notice, whatever the hour.
JJ's Hot Dogs Truck parked on Bloomfield Ave. near Lake St., Newark, New Jersey Open every day, except on major holidays, till late www.JJsHotDogs.com
Though cooked in an oven, chanfana is generally thought of as a stew, owing to the generous amount of cooking liquid required. Its origins are murky. When the French invaded Portugal in 1810, some say that local populations poisoned the water to deprive the French troops — or perhaps it was the troops who poisoned the water to punish the locals. Either way, little water was available for cooking, so for chanfana, chunks of meat were submerged in red wine instead.
Many newer recipes call for lamb. This more-traditional chanfana de cabrito (special, half-portion, $12) featured fork-tender goat, garlic-laced greens, and a Maginot line of boiled potatoes.
Picnic Churrasqueira 233 Ferry St. (at Alyea St.), Newark, New Jersey 973-589-4630 www.PicnicNewark.com
The Portuguese suffix "ão" is an augmentative, the opposite of a diminuative. Often, as at Hamburgão (Om-boor-Gow), the reference is to size. Not of the "patty", a thin slab of sirloin steak, but of a softball-sized package that includes lettuce, tomato, mayo, and corn, potato sticks for crunch (cf. frita Cubana), and a fluffy sesame-seeded bun. Even in this basic version ($3.75), the most stripped-down burger at Hamburgão, every bite offers a constellation of flavors.
Hamburgão 288 Lafayette St. (at Adams St.), Newark, New Jersey 973-465-1776 (One of several locations)
"In the Hub of Newark, serving you the best," but not for many decades. The neighboring Paramount Theater, which would have provided many customers, went dark in 1986; at that time the tavern may have been long gone, judging by the condition of the sign in a photo taken two years later. I haven't yet come across photos of the tavern itself or a reported predecessor, the Round Table Bar & Grill. As of 2014, the building's sole food-and-beverage business is a franchised location of Rita's Ices.
Broad & Market Tavern Surviving signage at 191 Market St. (Broad-Beaver Sts., in the Bowers Building), Newark, New Jersey
"If nature fails, your food may remain undigested, leaving you headachy and irritable," counseled an old radio ad from the makers of Carter's Little Liver Pills. Though its laxative pills are still manufactured today, Carter's was required to remove "liver" from the name after a protracted legal battle with the Federal Trade Commission in the 1940s and '50s.
It being baseball season, my first impression was rows of red double stitches; a closer look revealed the weathered but unmistakable outlines of several stalks of grain. I didn't know anything more about the prior or current use of these pale cylindrical towers, but several follow-up emails helped fill in the blanks (see the comments).
P. Ballantine & Sons Former brewery seen from St. Charles St., near the Ironbound Recreation Center, Newark, New Jersey