On my first visit to this Mexico City-style taqueria, late on a Saturday afternoon, customers were elbow-to-elbow at the windowside seats; I nosed my way just far enough past the door to witness the rhythmic hand-pressing of tortillas behind the counter. My two tacos al pastor were the bounty of a brief return visit, off-hours. Below: a footed bowl of chiles curtidos (pickled peppers). Show respect.
Taqueria Brenda Lee
359 Monroe St. (at Martha Pl.), Passaic, New Jersey
(one of several locations)