Apart from somewhat soupy smoked pit beans (small side, $4), the textures in this DIY BBQ sampler were great. The ample meat on the baby back ribs (half-rack, $15), for example, didn't fall off the bone but came free readily with a light pull, while the brisket had a dramatically craggy crust (shown in the second photo below, $25 per pound) that safeguarded its tender flesh. But the brisket was underseasoned; once I'd swabbed a piece in Hometown's "sticky sauce," I didn't want to do without.
Best over all was the smoked lamb belly ($24 per pound); even this could have used a touch of salt. Unfortunately, I arrived at the very tail end of sandwich time (weekend lunch only), so Hometown's lamb belly banh mi will have to keep.
454 Van Brunt St. (at Reed St.), Red Hook, Brooklyn