Trulli are traditional stone houses from the southern Italian region of Puglia, distinguished by their conical, mortar-free stone roofs. The design of this expansive restaurant, and the Apulian cuisine you'll find there, are likewise free of flourishes.
Black gold.
Bloody wonderful.
It's hardly the fanciest thing on the menu, but I wanted to know what a really good pasta fagioli should taste like.
I did like the crispy skate.
A Voce preferred not to have photos taken of the food, so I can't share with you the chef's roasted beet salad, surmounted by greens; his grandma's ravioli, generously filled with (reportedly) a mixture of beef, veal, and pork and dressed with tomato sauce and parmigian cheese; and choux (under a different name) that would send Beard Papa packing. See for yourself; for the Restaurant Week prix fixe ($24.08 at lunch only, weekdays through February 1), a party of two, or a very lucky party of four, has a decent chance of scoring a walk-in table if they arrive by 12:30 or so.
A Voce
41 Madison Ave. (at 26th St.)
212-545-8555
www.avocerestaurant.com
The choucroute is well-composed at Daniel Boulud's sophisticated and amiable bistro.
Greek grilled calamari, yes, diner style, far from it.
