If you've ever encountered a pljeskavica in the wild, you know that the nickname "Bosnian style burger" barely hints at the peculiarity of the beast. The beef-and-lamb patty, perhaps eight inches across but no more than a quarter-inch thick, is sandwiched in a pita-like bread of similar proportions. (The coin, off to one side, is a U.S. quarter.) Fully dressed, this pljeskavica (Plys-kah-veet-sah, $9) also sports lettuce, tomato, raw onion, yogurty white sauce, and the piquant Balkan spread called ajvar (Eye-var). Both onion and ajvar are essential; the patty itself is only mildly seasoned.
By default, the grill man — a Mexican fellow, on the day of my visit — will divvy up your pljeskavica so it's easier to handle. Or share it with three friends; there are just enough stools so you'll each have a seat.
791 Fairview Ave. (Madison St.-Putnam Ave.), Ridgewood, Queens