Three green barrels sitting outside meant three flavors on hand: lemon, orange, and coconut. Frutti di bosco was to have joined them later but may have been thwarted by an afternoon rainstorm. Also sitting outside were John DiCosmo (leaning back) and his wife, Nancy (in the center chair), third-generation owners of this family business founded in 1915.
Their son, John, has established a DiCosmo concession in the Rockaways and, observed his mom, churns out some exuberant flavors. But my cup of orange (small, $1.50) was no less artisanal for sticking to the basics: The original, fresh fruit was evidenced by one bit of pith and a little pulp.
714 Fourth Ave. (at High St.), Elizabeth, New Jersey
Also at 95-19 Rockaway Beach Blvd. (at Beach 96th St.), Rockaway Beach, Queens
Both locations summertime only