My laap-pa was tame, and seasoning was not the issue. Ideally a Lao dish of this sort, however you spell the name, should evoke a sense of wildness; traditionally the featured protein is minced. By contrast, Khe-Yo's laap (first photo, $13, including sticky rice) featured Long Island fluke in sashimi-like slices that are laid side by side, to be reeled in one by one. Despite the ebullience of the other ingredients — banana flower, mint, kaffir lime leaf, galangal chips, toasted rice powder — the portioning is fussy. It's possible that the kitchen slices the fish, rather than minces it, to reassure customers who have never eaten laap with just their fingers.
Also shown: pork belly and shrimp rolls ($9) in deep-fried wheat flour skins. With accompaniments of your choosing, they're destined to be cupped in lettuce and dipped in "sweet carrot" sauce.
Khe-Yo (pronounced Key-yo)
157 Duane St. (Hudson St.-West Broadway), Manhattan