Eating In Translation

Enoteca Maria

Southern Italian home cooking, one nonna at a time.

Bay Street Luncheonette

Chocolate egg cream, jiggled, not stirred.

Nürnberger Bierhaus

A trio of Nürnberg rostbratwürstchen ($6.95) were too moist within, and indifferently seasoned; in their namesake Bavarian home, I understand, these pork sausages are no more than finger-sized, and grilled till crisp. From nearby Munich, a pint of Spaten Optimator ($5) was malty and a bit on the syrupy side, held in check by the hops. Genial atmosphere; worth another visit when the outdoor garden is open in the warm weather.

Nürnberger Bierhaus
817 Castleton Ave., Staten Island
718-816-7461
www.nurnbergerbierhaus.com

Polbay

The look and feel of this capacious Polish-American deli on Bay St. is matter-of-fact, like the name; in mid-afternoon the handful of tables and chairs sat empty while the staff prepped hot takeaway food for the dinnertime rush. I departed with a jar of housemade plum jam ($3.99) with a sumptuous, almost heady aroma.

Polbay
1190 Bay St. (at Hylan Blvd.), Staten Island
718-448-1441

Egger's Ice Cream Parlor

Hot fudge sundae ($4.95). The cherry arrived at my table where you see it; the green was pistachio, though I knew it mainly by the color; the fudge stiffened so quickly that it resisted my spoon.

Egger's Ice Cream Parlor
1194 Forest Ave., Staten Island
718-981-2110

Joe & Pat's

Four of us sailed out on a Staten Island pizza trawl, and we pulled in a good one.

Nunzio's Pizzeria & Restaurant

A small sausage pie ($13.50) had a pliable, not-quite-crisp crust, OK sauce and cheese, and soft, loose-grained sausage meat. Fine; might have been better if it weren't their first pie of the day.

Nunzio's Pizzeria & Restaurant
2155 Hylan Blvd., Staten Island
718-667-9647

Denino's Pizzeria & Tavern

How do you like it, how do you like it...

Brother's Pizza

A grandma square ($2.50) "with marinara sauce and fresh basil" left the oven overbaked and had too little sauce. If you grew up with this style of pizza, you may enjoy it (I did); you can also consider it an "after-school special" on the perils of reheating.

Brother's Pizza
750 Port Richmond Ave., Staten Island
718-442-2332

Silver Lake Superette & Bagels

Don't know what a gourmet would make of the wood ear, but the root beer's not bad (12 fl. oz.; $1.50). Sweetened by cane sugar, flavored by natural and artificial ingredients, although the details have me stumped.

Silver Lake Superette & Bagels
350 Forest Ave., Staten Island
718-273-6928

Ralph's Ices

Traditional dessert stop after (or in lieu of) a Denino's pie, but only during the warmer months, I found.

Ralph's Ices
501 Port Richmond Ave., Staten Island (one of two locations)
718-273-3675

Honduras Patio Restaurant

I'm not sure there's a patio out back, either, but I liked the looks of the entrée-sized soups sitting on the tables inside.

Honduras Patio Restaurant
194 Bay St. (near Victory Blvd.), Staten Island
718-816-4429

Lakruwana

Transplanted from midtown Manhattan. Nice dining room and, reportedly, an expansive $10 Sunday buffet.

Lakruwana
226 Bay St. (near Victory Blvd.), Staten Island
718-420-0027
www.lakruwana.com/menu.htm

Lakshmi's Restaurant

That's the second-biggest slice I've ever seen.

Korto's Place

Likely the city's only Liberian restaurant, Korto's looks and feels more like a rental hall; a reception for the country's president would be held on the coming weekend, I discovered. But even when I simply walked in off the street, and then, all the way to the counter in back, I was graciously welcomed with a sampler of West African sauces (clockwise from front): cassava, spinach, and okra, containing hunks of beef, chicken, and turkey. An even tastier combo (not shown here) was fried sweet plantain with a savory sauce that blended vegetables and a little smoked herring.

Korto's Place
69 Prospect St. (near Bay St.), Staten Island
718-720-6252

Mexico Azteca

More a taco and torta counter than a restaurant, plus a deli-grocery with a better-than-average selection of frozen treats. Mamita's parcha (passion fruit ice; 4 fl. oz.; $1) included plenty of less-than-natural ingredients, and once I managed to tear open the plastic wrap, it dribbled all over my hand. Liked it anyway. I'll keep an eye out for the flavor called batata, or boniato, a Caribbean sweet potato.

Mexico Azteca
19 Broad St. (near Bay St.), Staten Island
(one of two locations)
718-448-4688

MarkeTurka

Baklava, you already know. Tulumba look like stubby churros, but although both desserts begin with fluted, deep-fried dough, the Turkish treat is sweetened with syrup while hot, then is typically eaten cold. Camlica brand lemon soda (330 ml.; $1) is a spritely way to wash them down.

MarkeTurka
512 Bay St., Staten Island
718-273-0030

New Asha

This humble restaurant, and its grocery next door, can take pride in well-spiced Sri Lankan fare; a fish bun (likely kingfish; $1.25) is one of the more portable dining options.

New Asha
322 Victory Blvd., Staten Island
718-420-0649
www.newasharestaurant.com

Grocery Lanka

The namesake fruit used in M&D brand woodapple jam (484 g.; $3.99), from Sri Lanka, has a hard shell with a white, scoopable flesh. The jam, closer in color to cranberry jelly (in texture, too, till you spread it flat), suggests orange without acidity.

Grocery Lanka
353 Victory Blvd., Staten Island
718-390-0337

African Homeland Store

Nigerian-owned grocery where food is just one way to stave off homesickness. This particular Vimto (12 fl. oz.; $1) was canned in the United States, but the soda — lightly carbonated, and flavored by raspberry and black currants — is not uncommon at West African restaurants.

African Homeland Store
70 Victory Blvd., Staten Island
718-727-7600