Which slice for you? This charming hand-drawn menu of cozonaci (co-zo-Nah-chee), a family of sweet Romanian breads, depicts cross-sections of nuca, stafide, mac, rahat, simplu, and ciocolata — walnut, raisin, poppy, Turkish delight, plain, and chocolate. Of course, bakers and customers just can't cut into the loaves willy-nilly to see which is which. The intact cozonaci indicate their fillings, too, by the shape of the loaf and by decoration: One wears a single walnut, another exposes a vein of poppy seeds.
Coffee and a cozonac (loaf, $8 to $10; slice, as available, $1.25) was the natural pairing for me. The menu board suggests another, however, that was enthusiastically endorsed by the counterwoman: cozonaci and wine.
Previously: In aggregate, saleuri (Sal-lee-Ooh, first photo below) resemble a break-it-apart pan flute. These savory breadsticks are enriched with butter and cheese — a tangy white variety called telemea is traditional — and sprinkled with the likes of caraway, poppy, or, at Nita's, cumin.
Sweeter, to various degrees, and from numerous other visits: a dense cake square packed with poppy seeds; raspberry-walnut rugelach; and a Linzer torte cookie. Also known as a Linzer sablé, this offspring of the fabled Austrian latticed cake customarily sports raspberry jam, though at Nita's apricot, hazelnut, and red currant reportedly also make appearances.
Nita's European Bakery
40-10 Greenpoint Ave. (40th-41st Sts.), Sunnyside, Queens