Hanging from the awning, to the left of the makeshift, curtainlike sunscreen, are a series of placards, not for this noodle shop but for nearby hostels and other budget accommodations. And just barely visible, on the narrow ledge inside the window, is a row of business cards also directed at recent arrivals to the neighborhood. These are signs of working man's fare. So is the wistful name Hometown Cuisine, a reference to China's southeastern Fujian province; a direct translation yields the even more evocative Hometown Fishball.
Shown below: a singularly unphotogenic bowl of bone marrow hand-pulled noodles ($5.50) and two bones, emptied by me; "seafood chow meat noodle" ($8.50). Perhaps naively, I thought that meat noodles might be a variation of the fish mein at Zheng's Family Garden, in which the noodles themselves incorporate fish. Here the noodles are just noodles, quick-fried, well-heaped, and slippery with oil, accompanied by head-on shrimp, squid, perhaps conch, clams in their shells — and halved pork meatballs.
5017 Eighth Ave. (50th-51st Sts.), Sunset Park, Brooklyn