For sandwich do-it-yourselfers, Liebman's offers cold cut platters accompanied by potato salad, cole slaw, pickles, and rye. This assorted platter ($21.95, including a $2 surcharge for the meat in the center, presumably for substance and not style) was of uneven appeal. It's best to pass up the corned beef and pastrami in favor of the tongue, here evocative of a Magen David, albeit with two points too many.
Also shown, both in side view: a slice of stuffed derma (two for $7.95), a.k.a. kishka, which my dining buddies proclaimed insufficiently schmaltzy; a very puffy potato pancake ($4.50).
Liebman's Delicatessen 552 West 235th St. (Johnson-Oxford Aves.), Riverdale, Bronx 718-548-4534 www.LiebmansDeli.com
How it must rankle the media buyers to rely on telephone kiosks! The second ad does make an attempt, it seems, to shake off the landline legacy by using the grammar and stacatto text associated with doge, an internet meme that subverts conventional grammar by pairing nouns and modifiers in dissonant phrases. However, by the time this campaign was conceived, approved, executed, and placed, doge had already lost much of its currency. In short: So last year.
Ads for GrubHub and Seamless "Outdated paper menus are full of lies. Lies, I tell you!" Tremont, Bronx "Such takeout. No calls. Very amaze." Flushing, Queens
This husband-and-wife team does business one day a week, with only two items, beef tripe soup and this beef-based black pudding. Many varieties of blood sausages, as they are also known, are prepared throughout the Caribbean. The texture of this Antiguan version, stuffed with chile-and-scallion-inflected rice, was reminiscent of a just-boiled Cajun boudin.
Since mine had been withdrawn from the pot immediately before serving, the contents could be squeezed from the casing with only light pressure from my fingers — no utensils needed. One link, scored for easy tearing and sharing, will set you back $5; the extra piece in the center was the proprietors' lagniappe.
Antiguan vendors Inside Cholo & Sons Bakery, 3825 White Plains Rd. (at 220th St.), Olinville, Bronx Saturday only
Madd fruit grows on a shrubby tree native to West Africa. Slicing off the top of the fruit reveals a compacted mass that, in a Senegalese market, might be spooned out on the spot; the thin layer of pulp is sucked off the comparatively large seeds, which are discarded. The label on this jar of Zena brand preserves (270 g., $6) made a similar serving suggestion. Though sugar has been added during the production process, the tangy flavor is more sour than sweet.
The two photos at bottom show a common progression, over three years, in the appearance of a market that seems to be doing well for itself. In 2011, the awning was a simple orange-and-white; with green, these are the national colors of the Ivory Coast. By 2014, a more-elaborate awning had been installed; it better follows the contours of the building, and in full color it illustrates many of the market's staple products.