Eating In Translation

El Gaucho Restaurant

For getting comfortable, there's nothing like your favorite "old clothes."

"Garden wall"

To the problem of scant garden space in the city, a response from Mother Nature. Downsides: Even on an east-facing wall, the heat from the bricks has begun to parch the leaves; the roots will continue to decay the mortar and the building as a whole; and, if you tried to plant this vertical garden yourself rather than leaving it to the wind, your dandelions would probably never take hold.

"Garden wall"
Union City, New Jersey

Centroamerican Deli and Grocery

The grocer hails from Nicaragua; so does the soft drink.

Pizzeria Cubana

Yes, they have no bananas.

La Cubana Bakery

Even late on a Sunday afternoon, fresh-baked pastries were still being set out for display, like this warm, flaky pastel de guayaba (that is, guava; 65 cents).

La Cubana Bakery
5700 Hudson Ave. (at 57th St.), West New York, New Jersey
201-553-0017

La China Poblana

Tacos árabes are cousins to tacos al pastor; both are name-checked on this awning (click the photo for a better look). Like the kibbeh that became a quipe, the árabes are a product of Lebanese immigrants, in this case to the Mexican city of Puebla. Reportedly, they're wrapped in thicker, pita-like tortillas than tacos al pastor, perhaps with a different salsa, too; when I have time for a side-by-side tasting, you'll see them here.

La China Poblana
5513 Hudson Ave. (54th-55th Sts.), West New York, New Jersey
201-865-4564

Holy Cross Armenian Church food festival and bazaar

"We only get this once a year." The fellow at the next table, in the guise of a favorite uncle at a family dinner, was speaking more in gratitude than in complaint about the Armenian home cooking, prepared and served by a dozen ladies who bustled about the church kitchen.

Milagro Ecuatoriano

It's on the regular menu, too.

P&L Grill

Even amid the fast-changing demographic of Hudson County, that's an unusual way to advertise a traditional diner menu of breakfast specials, club sandwiches, and plate dinners buttressed by potatoes and vegetables.

P&L Grill
590 32nd St., Union City, New Jersey
201-865-1121
Open Monday through Saturday till 5:00, Sunday till 3:00

Kino's

(This venue is closed.) It's a succulent sub-species of Cuban sandwich.

Manzanillo Bakery

This Salvadoran corner café serves empanadas, croquetas, and frituras, but sweets have pride of place. "Galleta," the only name I heard for my sugar-banded biscuit, simply means "cookie"; this one (75 cents) was dense with butter.

Manzanillo Bakery
2706 Central Ave., Union City, New Jersey
201-76-5751

La Criolla

This Cuban-owned variety store rests very comfortably on the sunny side of the street; inside, it has the well-worn feel of a favorite guayabera.

Mark's Homemade Ice Cream

If you find yourself on upper Bergenline Ave. with a taste for ice cream, chances are you already know Mark's very well. From a double-wide freezer case filled with the usual suspects, I chose one of the few unusual varieties, mamey (mah-May; small cup; $1.95). Sadly, that pinkish-orange blush wasn't matched by much flavor of the fruit itself — it had a slightly grainy texture, too, though not unpleasantly so — but on a summery day, I was able to enjoy it in North Hudson Park, across the street.

Mark's Homemade Ice Cream
8205 Bergenline Ave., North Bergen, New Jersey
201-861-5099

El Artesano Restaurant

This burger always comes with fries.

El Fenix Bakery

Here's where El Artesano gets its bread; they also serve a potent cortadito (espresso topped with steamed milk; 90 cents). Cinnamon and two sugars for me, please.

El Fenix Bakery
4211 Bergenline Ave., Union City, New Jersey
(one of three locations)
201-864-2699

Argentina Bakery

There's no missing Argentina Bakery, even from far down the avenue.

La Casa de la Frita Cubana

In Havana, Cuba, and in Little Havana, Miami, the namesake burger piles ultrathin, crisp fries directly on a fried patty; even though the beef is often spiked with paprika and onion, you'll want to wet it down with hot sauce. But not here: On a return visit, the spit of roast meat near the window and the taco menu on the back wall suggested that the business had changed hands.

La Casa de la Frita Cubana
3217 Bergenline Ave., Union City, New Jersey

Ecua Café

(This venue is closed.) In Ecuador and at this compact, pleasant café, morocho ($1.50) is an everyday alternative to breakfast oatmeal, smoothly blended from white corn and carrying a load of kernels and raisins down below.

Ecua Café
2904 Bergenline Ave., Union City, New Jersey
201-865-4420

Guatemala Bakery

(This venue is closed.) You don't so much drink it as slurp it.

Beytí Kebab Restaurant

Here's the first and best reason to stop by at Beytí.