Eating In Translation

El Artesano Restaurant

This burger always comes with fries.

El Fenix Bakery

Here's where El Artesano gets its bread; they also serve a potent cortadito (espresso topped with steamed milk; 90 cents). Cinnamon and two sugars for me, please.

El Fenix Bakery
4211 Bergenline Ave., Union City, New Jersey
(one of three locations)
201-864-2699

Kino's

The comidas and batidos at this old-line Latin eatery are nothing out of the ordinary, but I'll make time, another time, to catch a bite just for the atmosphere. Kino's keeps to itself, some distance from the busier Bergenline business district; perhaps that's why it's remained relatively undisturbed for so long.

Kino's
2201 Summit Ave., Union City, New Jersey
201-863-3108

Argentina Bakery

There's no missing Argentina Bakery, even from far down the avenue.

La Criolla

This Cuban-owned variety store rests very comfortably on the sunny side of the street; inside, it has the well-worn feel of a favorite guayabera. El Autentico brand turron de mani (peanut nougat; 1.5 oz.; 50 cents), shipped north from Miami's Hialeah district, was a fudgy blend of nuts, sugar, and honey.

La Criolla
22nd St. near Bergenline Ave., Union City, New Jersey

La Casa de la Frita Cubana

In Havana, Cuba, and in Little Havana, Miami, the namesake burger piles ultrathin, crisp fries directly on a fried patty; even though the beef is often spiked with paprika and onion, you'll want to wet it down with hot sauce. But not here: On a return visit, the spit of roast meat near the window and the taco menu on the back wall suggested that the business had changed hands.

La Casa de la Frita Cubana
3217 Bergenline Ave., Union City, New Jersey

Ecua Café

In Ecuador and at this compact, pleasant café, morocho ($1.50) is an everyday alternative to breakfast oatmeal, smoothly blended from white corn and carrying a load of kernels and raisins down below.

Ecua Café
2904 Bergenline Ave., Union City, New Jersey
201-865-4420

Guatemala Bakery

(This venue is closed.) You don't so much drink it as slurp it.

Beytí Kebab Restaurant

Here's the first and best reason to stop by at Beytí.

El Rinconcito Tipico Hondureño

Bright, compact restaurant and pupuseria that focuses on food from Honduras and nearby El Salvador. Love to try the sopa de jaivas, though I may never know just what type of crabs are swimming in that soup.

El Rinconcito Tipico Hondureño
1224 Bergenline Ave., Union City, New Jersey
201-319-8929

La Esquina Latina

The bill of fare is divided between the odd couple of Ecuadorian and Honduran, but though the menu is cluttered, the room is pleasant. Worth a visit on a weekend, when the full Ecuadorian lineup is available.

La Esquina Latina
2319 Bergenline Ave., Union City, New Jersey
201-866-8858

La Unica Bakery

Why this is called a "Malasian," I have no idea.

Night and Day

My Cuban sandwich ($3.50) was meaty — the optional pickles are tossed in there, too — but it didn't quite come together. Love the look of this corner restaurant, though; definitely worth another drop-in.

Night and Day
401 37th St., Union City, New Jersey
201-537-5610

Johnson's Tavern

You don't see that often. Here, in fact, you won't see it any longer; the tavern was closed for good six months ago, a passing tradesman noted. The building was home to the Sinatra family before they moved to Hoboken, he also told me.

Johnson's Tavern
404 36th St., Union City, New Jersey
201-863-9475