Previously the soups of the day were served in rotation — literally, as the lady of the shop demonstrated by swiveling the golden pointer in the center of the sign — but lately it always seems to be time for odengguk. As at many such small markets, this Korean fish cake soup (pint, $3.50) is self-service, which might entice you to overstuff your container. Do scoop up some radish, kelp, and onion, too, but don't neglect the broth, made flavorful by a sachet of small, anchovy-like fish and suffusing all it touches. When you've eaten up, drink up.
K.Y. Grocery (a.k.a. K.Y. Fruit & Vegetable)
1578 York Ave. (East 83rd-East 84th Sts.), Manhattan