This quartet from the buffet ($5.49 per pound) sported an unusual ornament. In the company of smothered chicken, curry goat, jerk chicken, and okra gumbo, a greenish-gold hot pepper suggested a kitchen not bound by soul-food convention. At the steam table, whole, single-serving fish (passed over by me, and not shown) reinforced that signal, as did an event flyer posted just inside the front door: The chef comes from the Ivory Coast. Hot pepper notwithstanding, curry goat was the best of the lot.
See also Sweet Mama's.
Royal Soul Food
914 Columbus Ave. (104th-105th Sts.), Manhattan