(This venue is closed.) Comfort food can make adults act like such children. Tell me if this doesn't sound immature: Three grown men dismiss the idea when I order dessert, then when it arrives, grab their spoons and eat half my peanut butter and jelly cupcake.
Actually it was jam, raspberry jam, deep inside a firm but fresh cake that sat a little lower and wider than the cupcake norm (so it was diminished, but never toppled, by a multiple-spoon excavation) and that was crowned with wonderfully fragrant, light peanut butter ($4.95). Also credit the pastry chef for the rich, cushiony biscuits that accompanied batterless fried chicken, giblet gravy, and mashed potatoes ($13.95); bring a basketful and I could eat them, without adornment, all evening long.
Gus and Gabriel Gastropub
222 West 79th St. (Broadway-Amsterdam Ave.)
212-362-7470