Eating In Translation

Word of Mouth: Memories of Laos

(This remembrance was sent to me by a reader, Orestes Gonzalez, following my recent posts on Luang Prabang and Vientiane. In addition to making a few minor typographical edits, I've omitted the name of "the lady," to protect her privacy.)

Thanks for the memories of Laos.

I was there in 2000, coming from Siem Reap. I got there on a Friday night, with $5 in my pocket (couldn't find any money changers in transit). The airport, newly remodeled, had no money changers open, as my flight was the last one (and had been delayed several hours).

The hotel I stayed at wouldn't change traveler's checks (I walked the ten blocks to get to it) or accept credit cards, so I was basically stuck for the weekend, without cash, until the banks opened on Monday. I guess I would eat fried caterpillars for the next two days.

Talat Sao

From the shadows, you can see that this is aptly named the "morning market"; from the parasols, you can tell it's already hot.

Nighttime sweets stand

Even if I'd missed the cutting of the pumpkin custard, this cart offered more sweets than I could take on in a single evening. A small bag of the moist, coconutty, yellow sweets in the center (2,000 kip) are good to munch while you walk; I don't have a close-up photo, but they resembled the med kanoon I've found in the Bronx.

Nighttime sweets stand
"Downtown," Vientiane, Laos
(From a November 2006 visit)

Nighttime drink stand

How did they do business before plastic bags?

Vendors along the Mekong River

Friday night lights.

Mekong Riverside Restaurant

I should've paid heed to the hiccups.

Fasai Shop

The flavor? It's not parsley, rosemary, or thyme.