As a kid, I never asked for cheese, yet somehow this bacon cheeseburger ($18) conjured up days gone by. Magically the golden slices of American added richness rather than cheesiness; the very juicy patty was braced by a perfectly toasted bun; bacon added a gently salty kick. Ketchup was provided but not applied, except to crisp spiced fries.
The Little Owl
90 Bedford St. (at Grove St.), Manhattan