Greek-style pies like those at my hometown standby, Hope Pizza, are baked in an oiled pan rather than directly on the oven floor. Perhaps that explains why I took so readily to Emmy Squared, where the pies are also pan-baked, but Detroit style. The pan is deeper; the cornicione, or lip, is taller and crisper; the crust as a whole is a little oilier and chewier; the toppings are terrific.
Shown below ($17 for each six-piece rectangular pie): the Hatchback, which sports Hatch chile peppers, chorizo, and crema; the sausage-pepper-mushroom Deluxe; and the Roni Supreme, good ol' pepperoni amped up with Calabrian chiles.
364 Grand St. (at Marcy Ave.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn