(This venue is closed.) Until recent years, your choices at Montreal's St. Viateur Bagel Shop were limited to "black" and "white" — poppy and sesame. A few familiar varieties have elbowed their way into the lineup, but Montreal bagels remain obstinately smaller than their Manhattan counterparts, and more dense with seeds. They're crispier and sweeter, too.
Bagels from H&H ($1.40 each) were once a reasonable simulacrum for their cousins from Canada in all regards except the sweetness. Of late, however, sometimes they've been more doughy and less well-seeded than before.
H&H Bagels
2239 Broadway (at 80th St.), Manhattan
212-595-8000
www.HHBagels.com
