(This venue is closed.) Since my friend Mike and I had had a great meal here and at Teodora's Bleecker St. sibling Bianca, we were happy to visit once again with our friend Charlie, who was visiting for a few days from Cleveland. We sat up front, between the door and the small bar area; it's a little noisier there than in back or upstairs, but we had a nice view of the snow falling on 57th St.
We split two appetizers. One, the fegatini de pollo ($10), "chicken livers deglazed with balsamic vinegar," is a specialty of Emilia-Romagna, the region of Northern Italy where (I believe) the owner hails from; they were just as sweet and moist as at Bianca. We also ordered a sauté of mussels and clams ($10.50) that was fine, though I enjoy these dishes when there's more garlicky liquid to sop up with my bread.
Charlie's entrée was the orata ($28), sea bream with swiss chard and potatoes, which Eric Asimov of The New York Times had found "clearly weary" in 2002. I was so taken by it on my original visit that I looked for orata on every seafood menu I saw, and Charlie was very happy with his choice, too. Mike was also happy with his straightforward spaghetti pomodoro ($13.50); rather than swimming in sauce, it came piled high though not dry, like a small haystack speckled with roasted tomatoes and basil.
I ordered the lasagna ($15.50) — "the traditional one from Emilia-Romagna" — and was nearly blown away by the 20 thin layers of pasta held firmly together by creamy, rich Bolognese and béchamel sauces. This was as delicate (and yet filling) a lasagna as I'm ever likely to try, but I'll still look for it on the menu on a return visit to Via Emilia on Park Avenue South.
Neither Mike nor Charlie had room for more than a forkful of my dessert, a very nice ricotta cheesecake. It wasn't the equal of the version at 'Cesca, but it left the standard New York-style cheesecake out in the cold.
Teodora
141 East 57th St. (Lexington-Third Aves.)
212-826-7101
