On a very snowy evening, most members of my sushi dining group bailed out, so only Chester and I were left to snag a small table in the back room. Looks like a West Village walk-down restaurant — stylish, but not an atmosphere that matched all the hype I'd read. And no squid this evening, either, which meant no tiger's eye; a mixed sunomono (mixed seafood in vinegar; $9.50) was good, if small.
I've always loved catching (if not cleaning) blue crabs at the Jersey shore, so a spicy blue crab roll with shiso ($8) and a piece of kani sashimi ($3.50) were at the top of my list, but they proved uninteresting. Good, again, but they didn't bring summers at the shore to mind. Hamaguri sashimi (littleneck clam; $2.25) was at least true to form.
Two more-recent favorites of mine, kurage (jellyfish; $2.75) and baby anago (sea eel; $2.75) each showed off very fine flavor; the maguro (tuna; $3.25) was a very nice cut.
We split two desserts: green tea crème brulee was pretty good; a sesame mousse with raspberry and ginger ice cream tried a little too hard.
All in all, high-quality seafood and smallish portions at relatively high prices.
Blue Ribbon Sushi
119 Sullivan St. (Bleecker-Houston Sts.), Manhattan
212-343-0404