Eating In Translation

Gennaro

Though twice its size of a few years ago, this all-cash, no-reservations Italian is still best enjoyed very early or very late. Tonight's dinner started at 5:00 with a calamari appetizer ($8.95), exquisitely grilled — even tantalizingly charred in a few tiny spots — and nestling among field greens, all atop a bed of very fine-grained "Sicilian couscous." (Gennaro's menu proclaims "Italian Mediterranean cuisine"; elsewhere I've seen it described as Tuscan.)

Good crusty bread from Williamsburg's Sette Pane Bakery, though rewarmed just a little too long and arriving just a little late, tided me over till the arrival of my entree. The familiar doughiness of cavatelli (special; $14.95), with sweet sausage in a light tomato sauce, was balanced somewhat by the bite of broccoli rabe, but the flavors seemed to shuffle rather than step lightly.

For dessert, tiramisu ($5.25) was so moist it might almost have passed for a freestanding pudding; rich froth on my cappuccino ($3), too.

Gennaro
665 Amsterdam Ave. (92nd-93rd Sts.)
212-665-5348

Mee Noodle Shop

Here and at nearby Bo's Bar-B-Q, lo mein with meat sauce, Peking style ($5.50) is one of the few Cantonese noodle dishes that's never served in soup; it's available dry only (which is how I happen to like it). At least, that's what the menu says, but this version was mighty wet, and it had a lot less oomph than the Asian spaghetti Bolognese at the neighboring joint. Mee also doesn't comp you with those flat, dry noodles and duck sauce. Advantage, Bo's.

Mee Noodle Shop
795 Ninth Ave. (at 53rd St.)
(one of several locations)
212-765-2929

Onera

(This venue is closed.) Simply decorated in blue and white, this serene walkdown dining room offers a terrific $20 prix fixe lunch. For starters, a basket of crusty bread rounds was joined by three dollops of hummus, one each flavored with garlic, olives, and sun-dried tomatoes.

From the appetizers and salads — chilled roasted octopus enticed me, as did crispy sweetbreads — I eventually settled on grilled black mission figs wrapped in prosciutto, stuffed with kopanisti and gorgonzola cheeses, and tarted up with a reduction of red wine and balsamic vinegar.

Though fascinated by the possibility of skate wing with an open savory baklava, cinnamon crème fraiche, and a sour cherry coulis, for my entrée I chose helopites, a (relatively) simple dish of wide egg noodles, kefaloteri cheese, and a ragout of rabbit and vegetables. Surprisingly but not overly sweet.

The yogurt dessert was as firm as cream cheese; a scattering of fruit and spiced walnuts reminded me of granola. Call me a cretin, but I think I might prefer the yiaourti at Uncle Nick's. Be that as it may, dozens of dreamy possibilities await a return visit to Onera.

Onera
222 West 79th St. (Broadway-Amsterdam Ave.)
212-873-0200

The Willett House

As the centerpiece of a Christmas Day meal, a medium rare prime rib (chef's cut; $40) was quite good but not exceptional; indeed, I rued not ordering the lamb chops ($37) that appeared elsewhere at the table. Creamed spinach ($6.50) needed onion or the like to give it just the tiniest zing. An appetizer of clams on the half-shell (eight for $16) was good, as was a dessert of properly tart key lime pie ($8.50).

The Willett House
20 Willett Ave., Port Chester, New York
914-939-7500

Telluride

Chili and cumin dusted calamari ($16) — as a starter to Christmas Eve dinner — was substantial enough to share, or to be a meal in itself for smaller appetites. Lightly fried and very tender, tossed with field greens, a little avocado, red onions, and tomatoes in a miso-ginger vinaigrette.

Telluride
245 Bedford St., Stamford, Connecticut
203-357-7679

Lioni Latticini

Having passed by but not stopped in Dyker Heights, I've never had the privilege of a Lioni's hero. However, this mozzarella and prosciutto roll ($9.99 per pound) made the trek north to Manhattan and amply filled in as a late-night nosh. Must return the favor and take a trip myself.

Lioni Latticini
7819 15th Ave., Brooklyn
(purchased at Morton Williams Associated Supermarket)
718-232-7852

Sun-Chan

Largely a Japanese crowd here, likely from Columbia. Geso age, deep-fried squid legs ($5.50) were that and no more. The mollasseslike layer of miso atop the nasu shigi ($6.50) didn't seem one with the grilled eggplant; compared with yesterday's at East, a little less for a little more.

Washed them down with a Calpico, a milky white soft drink (indeed, it blends milk powder and citrus flavorings) that seemed to insinuate itself fuzzily along my gums like unripe persimmon on the palate.

Sun-Chan
2707 Broadway (103rd-104th Sts.)
212-749-5008

Columbia Cottage

Long ago this was the site of a Hungarian restaurant, the Green Tree; the (Greek-owned) Hungarian Pastry Shop still offers a bottomless cup of coffee next door. For lunch today, from the Shanghai section of the menu I started with a cold appetizer of ox tongue and tripe ($6.25) in a spicy but not lip-numbing hot oil with scallions. The ox, a bit dry, mingled with just enough tripe to vary the texture.

From the Sichuan side, shredded potatoes sautéed in vinegar ($8.95) were the lightest spuds you can imagine, with a crunchy texture like the sliced peppers that brightened them. Light but pleasant wash of vineger, enlivened by anise and black peppercorns.

Columbia Cottage
1034 Amsterdam Ave. (at 111th St.)
212-662-1800

Tony Dragonas cart

Heard of the three-napkin burger? Here's a five-napkin hero (as shown or on pita; $4.50) that pack a sizable, sliced-up slab of charcoal-grilled chicken beneath veggies and lots of white sauce. Another time I might go dry rather than drown that charcoal twang.

Tony Dragonas cart
Southwest corner of 62nd St. and Madison Ave.
Till 6:00

Little India Stores

Not as dazzling a display as at the nearby Kalustyan's, but as the name suggests, its focus is almost exclusively groceries, condiments, and snacks (as well as incense and oils) from India. MD brand woodapple nectar (250 ml.; $1.75), from Sri Lanka, has a cherrylike, almost floral aroma and flavor; moderately sweet, not at all tart or acidic.

Little India Stores
128 East 28th St. (near Lexington Ave.)
212-683-1691