At a panaderia, customarily you help yourself to the pastries of your choice, using a tray and tongs; I plucked this still-warm jojo (80 cents) from a fresh batch.
Also called a "beso," it sealed together two sugar-dusted domes of yellow cake with a "kiss" of strawberry jam. (That well may be where the name comes from, but I wasn't comfortable asking the counterman any more about a kiss.)
On a return visit, my selections included the flaky pastry below (perhaps called a "tornillo"; $1) that was spiraled into the shape of a cone, then filled with an egg custard.
Don Paco Lopez Panaderia
2129 Third Ave. (116th-117th Sts.)
