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Russ & Daughters

"These chubs had a good life," observed the counterman as he wrapped two fat fish ($6.49 per half-pound). They came to a finger-lickin' good end, too.

Another visit followed a disappointment at International Pickle Day, when Orchard St. came up short on the chocolate-covered version. Maybe I don't know from kugel, but the Russ & Daughters version of noodle pudding ($6.95 per pound) seemed very bland. Even with a dollop or two of sour cream to coax out some contrasting flavors, a scattering of golden raisins and a sprinkle of cinnamon barely made their presence felt.

Call it sweet-and-salty fish, Swedish style: beet-apple-herring salad ($2 for a quarter-pound).

Russ & Daughters
179 East Houston St. (Orchard-Allen Sts.)


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