"Pecorino" ("little sheep") describes a vast range of Italian sheep's milk cheeses; Di Palo's carries more than a hundred, including this variety ($12.99 per pound) that borrows from the beehive, then wraps itself in paper impressed with hay. The yellowed interior is hard and granular; the aroma, mildly lactic, with hints of honey as well as hay. On the tongue, exceptionally even-tempered lactic flavors step forward, and the other notes recede, provided you peel it.
Di Palo's Fine Foods
206 Grand St. (at Mott St.)
212-226-1033
www.DiPaloSelects.com
