(This venue is closed.) The Mill is no match for the better Korean dining establishments in Flushing, or even on 32nd St., but it has a certain homey appeal for the Columbia community.
Panchan, the little free dishes that precede and accompany your meal, usually are limited to four; they might include kimchee; barely spicy acorn squash; cauliflower and broccoli; mung bean sprouts; spinach; spicy tofu; and whole, firm adzuki beans.
A recent lunch special of bulgogi dup bab (stir-fried beef over rice, shown here with hot sauce; $7.95) was workmanlike, no better; another time, the bulgogi hot stone pot ($9.95), beef over rice with egg, carrots, sprouts, and zucchini, was similarily diligent. The modeum pa-jeon ($9.95) was a greasy, bland eight-inch flour pancake with some squid, something green, maybe some meat; the plain pa-jeon ($7.95) was just that. Naeng-myun ($8.95), angelhair buckwheat noodles in a cold broth, with a little sliced beef, cucumber, cabbage, and scallions, surprised me with the addition of sliced apple. Could have been a nice summer soup if the broth weren't so boring.
The lime rickey (about 20 fl. oz.; $2.50), the only menu holdover from the Mill's former life as a luncheonette, decades ago, remains an effective heat quencher to chase the spicier dishes. For me, usually it does dessert duty as well, if you don't count the Chiclets.
Mill Korean Restaurant
2895 Broadway (112th-113th Sts.)
212-666-7653
