Eating In Translation

La Casa del Mofongo

Got my goat.

Ihawan

At this starkly lit but amiable Filipino restaurant, meat is at the center of the action.

Braulio's & Family

(This venue is closed.) The awning's promise of "sabor Manabita" refers to the flavors of Manabí province, on Ecuador's coast. Seafood, as you'd expect, is the focus of the cuisine. Years ago I visited this pubby restaurant to try the black clam ceviche; except for "black" and "clam," all I remember is that the experience would be greatly improved by a warm sea breeze.

Braulio's & Family
39-08 63rd St., Woodside, Queens
718-899-3267

Warteg Fortuna

Never did stop by this Indonesian BBQ and snack shack, which once greeted passengers descending from the elevated 7 train at 52nd St.; it gave up the ghost sometime in 2006 or early 2007.

Warteg Fortuna
51-24 Roosevelt Ave., Woodside, Queens
718-898-2554

2nd Ave. Deli

The side street is narrower than the avenue, and this deli's new digs are crowded, too.

Himalayan Café

(This venue is closed.) When the weather gets cold, survival instincts step forward.

McNally Jackson

The coffee in this bookstore café ($1.75; includes one refill) is prepared from an Italian brand called Miscela D'oro; it's medium-bodied and slightly acidic, and I love how the pump pot froths the surface. The café itself has a pleasant atmosphere: not too frenetic, but not overrun with all-day campers, either.

McNally Jackson
52 Prince St. (Lafayette-Mulberry Sts.), Manhattan
212-274-1160

Salumeria Biellese

This old-time sausage maker really piles it on.

I&S Deli

(This venue is closed.) Table Talk pies (4 oz.; 69 cents) are a guilty pleasure of mine, except I don't have them that often and don't feel that guilty.

Pa'Oun

(This venue, named EGB when I visited and later Pa'Oun, under the same ownership, is closed.) The lengthy menu of burgers and chicken sandwiches seemed strangely familiar; the tip-off was the black-and-white shake.