The tousled noodles in my shio ramen (large; $7.99) were firmer than average; the roasted pork and other add-ins, including a fish cake, scallions, bamboo shoots, cloud-ear mushrooms, sesame seeds, and a pickled plum, were unexceptional. But the salt-flavored broth grew on me, and I finished off my ramen by drinking from the bowl.
Santouka
In the Mitsuwa Marketplace
595 River Rd., Edgewater, New Jersey