Eating In Translation

He Nan Restaurant

(This venue is closed.) None of us knew what to expect from Henan food, and a new chef from Shanghai hardly clarified the matter.

Emilio's of Morris Park

I can still taste the garlic and oil in this super-saucy grandma slice ($2.95).

Enrico's Pastry Shop & Caffe

The deep powder on the peaks of this crumb cake (75 cents) concealed traces of cinnamon, too. Their "café" may be very small, but Enrico's has the best-looking display of baked goods on the avenue.

Enrico's Pastry Shop & Caffe
1057 Morris Park Ave., Bronx
718-823-7207

Carlo's Pizzeria

This fluffy Sicilian slice ($2.50) had unusual company — a business news channel, and a small audience of good-natured kibitzers. Extra points for a proprietor who asks whether I'd like a center slice or a corner.

Carlo's Pizzeria
1809 Radcliff Ave. (near Morris Park Ave.), Bronx
718-822-8562

Conti's Pastry Shoppe

The crumb-crusted exterior sold me, but the skimpy filling of this cherry turnover ($1.75) was disappointing. Perhaps I'd have better fortune with a different pastry.

Conti's Pastry Shoppe
786 Morris Park Ave., Bronx
718-239-9339

Kabab Café

Tight quarters, good food.

Laziza Sweets

(This venue is closed.) Laziza serves several takes on the "shredded wheat" sweets called kanafa.

Silver Moon Bakery

At Silver Moon, "brioche" can a flexible term.

Sookk

Green curry is the most fiery member of the standard New York curry lineup. Even when ordered "extra spicy," however, this vegetarian version — including broccoli, bell pepper, carrot, bamboo, and out-of-season asparagus — registered barely a flicker. Included in my lunch special ($7), a pair of finger-sized vegetable spring rolls were drizzled with an overly sweet pineapple-carrot sauce.

Sookk
2686 Broadway (102nd-103rd Sts.)
212-870-0253

Texas Rotisserie & Grill

Underneath the scallions and cheese, my chili con carne (12 oz.; $6.79) was thin and beany. With rice, cornbread.

Texas Rotisserie & Grill
2581 Broadway (at 97th St.)
(one of several locations)
212-665-9800
www.texasrotisserie.com