Once you're buzzed through the door, you'll find a small spread of robust West African food behind the counter of this Nigerian-Ghanaian eatery. On my first visit, about half the options found their way onto this combo plate ($7), including curls of cow skin, slabs of tripe, and chewy chunks from the more pedestrian parts of animal, plus plantains, jollof rice, and a spicy tomato-based sauce.
I'd never tried cow skin before. It's firmer and less unctuous than its glistening looks would have you believe, but I'm glad I got the combo plate — I wouldn't want to make a meal of it.
African/American Restaurant (formerly Aziza)
3716 White Plains Rd. (216-217th Sts.), Bronx
718-882-5100