(Apologies to Frank Perdue.) That toothsome browned exterior is an Ess-a-Bagel bagel's most notable feature: It perfectly balances the pillowy interior, and it stands up well even under a load of cream cheese, nova, tomato, onion, and more cream cheese ($10, for two halves like this).
Ess-A-Bagel
359 First Ave. (at 21st St.)
(one of two locations)
212-260-2252
www.Ess-a-Bagel.com