When you find yourself face-to-face with the likes of Nice Matin's five-napkin burger ($15.95) — an extremely juicy production surmounted by comte, sauteed onions, and aioli — try eating it directly over the lovely, crisp fries. You might be able to cut those five napkins down to four, or three if you lick your fingers, as long as you stay focused on conservation (of delicious burger drippings, that is). Take care, though, when the weather is nice and you're lucky enough to score an outside table: Mind which way the wind is blowing, or an extra load of laundry will undo all your noble efforts.
Nice Matin
201 West 79th St. (at Amsterdam Ave.)
212-873-NICE (212-873-6423)
www.NiceMatinNYC.com