A frita Cubana (two for $4.50) piles crisp slivers of potato directly on a fried patty. This "Cuban hamburger" tends to be dry, so even though the beef may have been spiked with paprika and onion (can't be sure; when I'm hungry and the food is good, sometimes I don't look closely), I splashed on some hot sauce, too. A batido de guanabana (soursop shake; about $3) washed them down, though on days when the sweet tooth takes charge, I'll go with guarapo — fresh-squeezed sugarcane juice.
El Artesano serves many other Cuban dishes seldom seen north of Miami, such as tamal en cazuela ($4.25); look for it under "soups," although this thick concoction is better translated as "corn casserole." Churros, filled with dulce de leche (three for $1.25) or unfilled (eight for $1), are continually carted from the kitchen; even if you're just passing by, you can order them from a streetside window, too.
El Artesano Restaurant
4101 Bergenline Ave., Union City, New Jersey
201-867-7341
www.ElArtesanoRestaurant.com