(This venue is closed.) Squeeze past the deli-grocery in front, and you'll find even fresher treats in back.
Beneath the little TV set softly warbling in Spanish, a counter-through opens onto a small kitchen where two ladies prepare tacos, quesadillas, and tortas. The tacos ($2 to $2.50) are unusually meaty; above, that's the carnitas (pork), but the barbacoa, chorizo, lengua, and suadero (goat, sausage, beef tongue, and beef belly) are just as fully loaded. Add a sprinkle or splash of hot sauce, to taste; if you take it too far, one of the many Mexican soft drinks will take off the edge.
When they're available, try one of the special quesadillas like flor de calabaza (pumpkin flower; $2.50), which has an evanescent flavor that doesn't fall far from the gourd, or huitlacoche ($3), a corn fungus that's served up smooth and dark, dotted with corn kernels, and disarmingly spicy.
Tehuitzingo
695 Tenth Ave. (47th-48th Sts.)
212-937-0343
