(This remembrance was sent to me by a reader, Orestes Gonzalez, following my recent posts on Luang Prabang and Vientiane. In addition to making a few minor typographical edits, I've omitted the name of "the lady," to protect her privacy.)
Thanks for the memories of Laos.
I was there in 2000, coming from Siem Reap. I got there on a Friday night, with $5 in my pocket (couldn't find any money changers in transit). The airport, newly remodeled, had no money changers open, as my flight was the last one (and had been delayed several hours).
The hotel I stayed at wouldn't change traveler's checks (I walked the ten blocks to get to it) or accept credit cards, so I was basically stuck for the weekend, without cash, until the banks opened on Monday. I guess I would eat fried caterpillars for the next two days.
The next morning, while trying not to panic, I stumbled upon this beautiful craft store that you could see was owned by someone who knew Western tastes, as everything was crafty, but very modern. A nice and very tall older lady was behind the counter. I figured I would buy something and they would be happy to break one of my $100 traveler's checks. I spent a half-hour selecting some fabrics to take with me (very lightweight!), and approached the counter. When I pulled out the check, she politely said, "I'm sorry, but the owner doesn't take traveler's cheques." She had a Germanic accent and was very regal in her manner.
She must have seen the look of panic in my face, because she then said, "You must have come in late last night and don't have any cash...correct?" Yes! I said, throwing my fate in her hands.
She pulled a box from under the counter, and inside the box was an assortment of letters. She pulled the last one out and plucked two $50 bills out of it. "Here," she said, "take this until Monday. Give it back to me when you can get back here."
After a few pleasantries, and giving her my personal info, I took the money and saved myself from panhandling on the streets for two days.
Monday came. I went to the bank to the airport, (banks were closed because of Chinese New Year), and pulled out some cash to pay her back and to buy my bus ticket to Luang Prabang, which was my real destination. At the store, I could not find her. The other shop girl told me, in broken English, the lady had to suddenly leave the country and she didn't know when she would be back. I explained to her what had happened, and told her about the box of letters under the counter.
After searching for it, she found it. I opened several of the letters and discovered they were all "thank you" notes from people all over the U.S. and Europe, who had been in the same predicament that I had been in and that had been saved by this lady's generosity. The shop girl would not take the money, and I had no way to reach the kind lady, so I left, hoping to somehow find a way to repay her.
A week later, back in Bangkok, I was going over my emails when I discovered an email ... from Denmark. This was the kind lady! She explained she had to suddenly go back to Copenhagen to be with a sick adult son. She told me that she spends half the year in Laos, has been doing it for the past 10 years. She has been helping people stuck without cash all this time, on the honor system. I wired her money immediately and have been in contact ever since, sending each other Christmas cards with updates on her and her very interesting brood ( all her kids have lived in foreign countries at one time or another).
She passed away this spring...and I'm sorry to see her go.
I wonder who's going to take care of those stuck travelers now...
