Eating In Translation

Vaquero Fruits

A small, welcome surprise at the Red Hook Ball Fields.

Lainez stand

Lots of locals call on Lainez.

Rojas stand

One of the great things about the Red Hook Ball Fields used to be that you could walk around, see what was cooking, and order "one like that."

Sosa Fruits

The aguas frescas ("fresh waters") at the Sosa stand include horchata (or-Chot-uh, the leftmost of the four large containers), a name that describes a variety of vegetable beverages but that in New York typically denotes a sugared drink made from rice and scented with cinnamon.

Telepan

(This venue is closed.) At first, I didn't recognize the french-fry holder for what it was.

Soutine

(This venue is closed.) Special-occasion cakes are its stock in trade, so this little bakery's pies, tarts, croissants, and other pastries are less well-known than they should be. This blueberry scone ($2.50) was modest in appearance, but it was also moister than most, and that vein of berries ran deep.

Soutine
104 West 70th St. (Columbus-Amsterdam Aves.)
212-496-1450
www.Soutine.com

Boca Chica

(This venue is closed.) "Black rice with seafood" is Boca Chica's translation of chofan, a Dominican version of Chinese fried rice, heavy on the soy sauce.

It's often a last home for leftovers, and scooped from the window display, this chofan (small; $4) was a tad dry. But when time permits, there's much more I'd like to try from the extensive menu at this tiny seafood specialist: white snapper ceviche, "fish filet in coconut," maybe even the grouper stuffed with seafood. Timing may be tricky: You'd expect to come across several cooks, with various levels of skill, at a place that's open 24 hours.

Boca Chica
1354 Amsterdam Ave. (125th-126th Sts.)
212-222-6660

Cedars Meat House

(This venue is closed.) Even a carnivore could kvell on the eggplant sandwich.

Ipanema Girl

(This venue is closed.) Plucked from the counter display of this "mini Mercado Brasileiro," Paraibuna brand bananinha cremosas (36 g.; 50 cents) were firm and pasty rather than creamy, delivering a mini-hit of sugared, slightly burnt banana.

Carvel Ice Cream Bakery

Left behind, that's the only ice cream on the premises; the Carvel name itself has been spirited away. But don't despair: Down-to-earth dessert options still await you just across the street.

Carvel Ice Cream Bakery
25-85 Steinway St., Astoria, Queens
Torn down October 2008, according to the comment below