Cono's calamari hero ($9.50), one of the few in the city, appeared within minutes of my order, so the featured ingredient, long since cooked, was chewier than I'd like — but slathered in a pasty-thick spicy sauce, it was oh so good.
Cono and Sons O'Pescatore Restaurant
301 Graham Ave. (at Ainslie St.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn
718-388-0168