Courtesy of the house, one of Bonatt's beloved melt-a-ways will arrive at the table not long after you do; it's very light and fluffy, and sweet quite apart from the frosting. Sweet enough, in fact, that I was glad for the salty contrast of a "Port special" ($9.95), which featured the coarse Portuguese sausage called linguica; cubed home fries, perhaps half of them crispy; and two eggs (here, scrambled). Also included: a pair of buttermilk pancakes topped with sugar and a slice of strawberry (not shown, but dutifully polished off).
Another time — on my only return visit to any restaurant during this trip to the Cape — I steered straight for a special of cinnamon apple pancakes ($9.95, plus $2.25 for maple syrup) that was almost more fruit than flapjack.
Bonatt's Bakery & Restaurant
537 Main St., Harwich Port, Massachusetts
508-432-7199
Open seven days, 6:00 a.m.-1:30 p.m.