That unusual touch on sour, coarsely shredded collard greens (easier to see if you click on the photo) might tell you that the kitchen's heart is in border country, even if you didn't note the nachos on the menu. The Mexican chef, who hails from down the coast, in Veracruz, smokes his ribs and meats over chunks of apple and hickory wood; his Texas-style BBQ beef ribs (with one side; $9 lunch special), slathered with a sweet peppery sauce, pull free from the bone with only gentle resistance.
Green Apple BBQ
362 East 112th St. (near First Ave.)
212-410-6915