Beyond the dark-toned front barroom and lounge is a recreation of a Cuban patio, complete with trickling fountain and pristine "laundry" hung out to dry.
But nothing says backyard like the frita ($6), Cuba's take on the hamburger, presented as two piquant sliders made from ground beef, pork, and sausage. (Rather than with chips on the side, though, my favorite frita has fries on top.) The national affection for garlic is gratified by a starchy side dish of steamed yuca con mojo ($4). And the sponge cake in the housemade tres leches ($6) is exceptionally light and springy, even after a soaking in evaporated, condensed, and whole milk.
Amor Cubano
2018 Third Ave. (at 111th St.)
212-996-1220
www.AmorCubanoRestaurant.com